A certain, buck-toothed night time entertainer has his top ten, but this weeks entry is cutting that in half, and will do so in a hasty manner. So hang on because this article will be short and sweet, getting right to the point and without superfluous verbiage.
If you want your vehicle to last longer, and offer better service during your ownership period, follow these 5 simple points.
1. Change the Oil: Everybody knows this one maintenance item, but few follow it like they should. Oil is the lifeblood of the engine, and changing it on schedule will greatly enhance the motor's longevity and performance. But what to do? A general rule of thumb is this: the shorter distances you drive, and the fewer intervals of driving you perform, dictate shorter intervals between oil changes. Conversely, if you routinely drive long distances at a time, and do so frequently, your oil changing intervals can increase. But consider two more factors: the type of oil you use, and the mileage on your car. If you use conventional oil, change your oil more often than if you use synthetic oil (which is usually twice the price per quart). If your engine is way up in miles, it will need oil changes a little more often than one that is under 50,000 miles. The variances are subtle here, but worth noting. The differences come from the fact that your engine needs to run at normal operating temperatures for a certain amount of time to burn off contaminants that naturally infect your engine oil. Short, infrequent trips are analogous to a person only getting out of bed or a chair once or twice a day to walk to the mail box, for instance. That person will suffer health concerns if that is all they ever do. The analogy carries over to your engine.
So, if you drive infrequently and short distances, and you use conventional oil, change that oil every 4,000 miles or sooner. If you routinely drive on the highway for extended periods and use synthetic oil, you may be able to go up to 8,000 miles between oil changes safely. Deduct about 10% from both numbers if you engine is cranking over 100,000 miles, and another 20% if using conventional oil. Oh, and don't ever neglect to change the oil filter too. It's pretty much worthless without that.
2. Front end Alignments: Every front end component on your car, ranging from ball joints, to tie rod ends to tires and bearings, all suffer more rapid deterioration if your front end is out of line. Simply put, a front end alignment puts the tires (and all the components attached to them) in proper geometric alignment so that your car steers and handles as the factory intended. Having routine front end alignments will greatly increase tire wear and steering component wear on your vehicle, as well as make your car more safe, and easy to drive. In certain cases, it can even enhance gas mileage to a degree, because an improperly aligned vehicle realizes more friction and resistance and is thereby less efficient.
Timely front end alignments will keep your vehicle handling and driving crisply long into it's serviceable life, and will help make it much safer too.
So, how often do you need to perform this maintenance? As a general rule, about every two years or every 30,000 miles will do for most vehicles in most situations. However, as your car ages, or if you drive in the pot hole-ridden snowbelts of our nation, you may be wise to shorten those intervals all the way down to every year or 15,000 miles. Some people make a habit of having this service done when putting on new tires, and then again at about the mid-life of those tires. Depending upon the longevity of your tires, this may work, but don't wait for the steering wheel to pull hard to either side, or for obvious signs of uneven wear on the tires. By that time imperceptible wear on all components has already occurred.
3. Cleaning: Car lots have secrets to making a neglected car look good for resale, and those secrets are nothing more than the same things any of you can do on a routine basis to keep your car looking good year round. First, wash your car at least once a month, if not twice. This not only improves the appearance, but it also removes harmful contaminants such as oil, bird poop, acid rain spots, and just everyday grime that harms the paint and glass surfaces. Don't neglect to scrub those aluminum wheels while you're at it - brake dust is highly caustic and will quickly pit the surface of those wheels if left unattended.
Second, get out the vacuum! Dirt, grass, leaves, and gravel - when ground into your carpet - does irreversible damage in a short time, so vacuum weekly or bi-monthly and use a good quality carpet spray cleaner once a year to help remove unavoidable stains. Don't forget to wipe down the dash and kick plates often too, and clean out that nasty center console!
Third, apply wax and other surface treatments on a regular basis. It is possible to have a new car shine 10 or even 20 years later if a good carnuba wax is used on a regular basis.
Fourth, with great caution, clean your engine bay and undercarriage. This may be best left to a highly reputable detail shop, but if you do it yourself, you will need to exercise caution and use quality cleaning supplies. The result can be a cooler running engine and it can help certain components last longer (belts, hoses, etc.), and it can aid in finding leaks or other problems that may have been masked by all the accumulated grime.
4. Shocks: This list of 5 is anything but comprehensive, but changing the shocks/struts on your vehicle when needed will make such a drastic difference in ride and handling, that you will want to spend the money to have it done more often. Timely shock replacement will shorten stopping distances, decrease tire wear, improve handling, and enhance the ride of your vehicle all at the same time. Most motorists never change the shocks/struts unless they utterly fail, but now you know that this maintenance item is very warranted and needed if your shocks/struts have more than 50,000 miles on them. Period. No exceptions. There is no grace period, and regardless of what you think is the ride quality of your vehicle, the shocks are worn out by 50,000 miles, if not much sooner. You will never know just how much your old worn out shocks are affecting all parameters of your vehicle until you change them.
If you have a strut type front suspension, ask the shop to replace the strut "cartridge" and save about 30% on the cost of a total strut replacement. Make sure you replace all the shocks at the same time too. The cost may be steep, but you are jeopardizing your life and the life of your passengers by ignoring this important maintenance item.
5. Other Fluids: If you want to avoid costly repairs and increase the efficency of your vehicle, then you will want to change the following fluids in a timely manner:
A.) Brake fluid: few people know that brake fluid is scheduled by all car manufacturers to be changed on a regular basis. Brake fluid naturally attracts water, and it also wears out over time, just like engine oil. So, have a service technician flush your brake system about every 40,000 miles and your entire brake system will not only function better, but will last far longer.
B.) Transmission fluid: replacement of this fluid every 40 - 50,000 miles can increase your servicable life by tens of thousands of miles! Don't forget that filter too, and while you're at it, install synthetic transmission fluid for a boost in longevity.
C.) Power steering fluid: Almost universally neglected, changing this fluid about every 50k can help your steering box or rack and pinion outlast every other component on the car. It may also help hoses and seals last the life-time of the car too. Again, use a proper viscoscity synthetic replacement when changing.
D.) Differential fluid: on some front drive cars, changing the transmission fluid also includes the differential, but not often. Otherwise, changing this fluid approximately every 60 - 80,000 miles will help gears and limited slip mechanisims (where applicable) last far longer than the paint!
Follow these top 5 suggestions and realize a better running, longer lasting vehicle that will avoid most common service issues and be the envy of all your driving friends.
Another way to look at it -- just one transmission replacement can easily surpass the combined costs of all 5 suggestions at one time. So, as the old ad once said, "you can pay me now, or pay me later." Go ahead and pay now, and enjoy driving a safer and more reliable car now as well.
Drive precisely!
Friday, November 30, 2007
Thursday, October 4, 2007
Here's Your Sign
You know who you are....
When you are driving along, and you come upon an octagon-shaped sign that is mostly red with a 4 letter word on it painted in white, what you take that sign to mean is....
A) "You may want to slow down somewhere in this vicinity"
B) "If there are no cars around, just keep going"
C) "Stop here, and then proceed lawfully"
D) "Gun it!"
E) "Stopping is for suckers and old people. I'm in a hurry"
F) "All of the above, except C"
Now, this author is sympathetic to the notion that coming to a full stop out in the middle of nowhere at an intersection that rarely sees 3 cars a day, with a full peripheral view of 300 yards in every direction, is subject to review, but that kind of scenario is the exception, not the norm. So, for those of us who drive on average surface streets laced with intersections, STOP signs have a very decided and useful purpose, which is - to keep us all from slamming into one another.
Before you yawn and dismiss this subject, just do a simple experiment: get a comfy lawn chair, meet some of your neighbors, and sit where you can see a local 4 way stop. As you relax, sipping sweet tea, take note of how average drivers treat that intersection. If all the roads leading to the intersection are full of cars, everyone stops, but note their lack of reasoning and judgment as to who has the right of way. Want to throw the "average" driver into a tizzy? Let them come upon a busy intersection where two cars arrive at the stopping point at the same time. It's like watching a cat chase its own tail. However, if that intersection is largely abandoned, or seeing low traffic flow, count how many drivers just blow through, with little semblance of even slowing down. You may be surprised to find that less than 20% even pretend to stop under such circumstances.
STOP means STOP. So, maybe it's not terribly important for your car to have time to rock back and forth due to the forces of inertia and so forth, but you know good and well what an actual stop is, and what is not. But this is where all you "average" drivers out there think that such discussions are unimportant and childish. After all, you are keeping an eye out, right? And this is YOUR neighborhood, after all! You drive these streets year in and year out, and you've never run into someone or over someone, so what's the big deal?
Big deal, indeed.
As with so many traffic laws, a STOP sign is there in the anticipation that at any given time, all four lanes leading into the intersection (or two, or three lanes, or more) could be occupied by a driver, and so the worst case scenario is always handled first. This is reasonable rationale when you get to the point that you understand that you are not the only driver on the road. There are other drivers out there, and their very safety depends upon both you and them obeying simple driving laws that take into account all possible scenarios.
The problem is this: when you make a habit of running through stop signs, sooner or later you are going to miss something. You are going to fail to see that child, bicyclist, or other motorist that assumes you will stop, and they begin to cross. But of course, you know this area, drive it all the time, and run that stop sign all the time, and so while you're engaged in useless conversation on your cell phone, while eating fries and drinking your beverage -- supremely sure that you are so "cool" -- you do what you have done in the past, and roll right through, but this time, something happens. That child is crushed, that bicyclist is bounced, or that car is crunched, and there you sit, with such a stupid look on your face, asking, "how did this happen?"
The universal law is this.....regardless of your supposed skill level, you will eventually make a mistake and miss something if you continue to run through stop signs. Stopping allows you to check, and then double check, every direction, looking for possible hazards as you obey the law. In this case, the law is very helpful and should be obeyed with care, if for no other reason than that the other driver approaching your intersection may be intending to run through too. Hate to see that bill!
Go ahead and stop. Doubt it will kill you.
Drive precise!
CAR CARE TIP OF THE DAY
Speaking of brakes....
Did you know that not all brakes are created equal? Did you know that when certain elements of your brake system need to be replaced, you often have options?
It's true! In fact, most people don't service their brakes themselves, so they just accept that whatever the service technician provides is the one and only choice. Even those that venture into the dark world of brake repair often miss the opportunity to upgrade and reap the benefits of shorter stopping distances, lower noise, and less brake dust.
If you drive a car less than 10 years old, it is very possible you have disc brakes at all four corners. Even if you have drum style brakes on the rear, you can still obtain upgraded components that will reap the benefits listed above. But first, a quick review of your major brake components.
A brake disc looks like a big metal pancake, often viewed behind the wheel of your car. It is round, has two flat sides, and will often be "vented" in the middle, which means that the two flat surfaces have hollowed out portions between them, providing better cooling. You see, your brakes essentially take forward motion and turn it into heat energy while exerting pressure on the rotating assembly. Therefore, your brake components get hot, and it is critical that your brake system can handle this heat. Many upgrade components deal with, and dissipate that heat more effectively than stock parts. Along with the discs, calipers hold disc brake "pads" that are pressed against the disc on both sides, providing the necessary friction to stop the car. This design is inherently efficient and has become the industry standard. Just 30 years ago, four wheel disc brakes were rarely seen on anything but the most exotic sports cars.
A drum brake system is older, but still fairly efficient at stopping. Drum brakes have brake "shoes" (they look like half moons) that exert pressure from the inside out upon a circular drum that rolls with the tires. This design is not as effective and powerful as disc brakes, but usually weighs slightly less and is the old standby.
Next up are brake lines. Standard brake lines are both solid (metal tubing) and flexible (rubber tubing) and will normally last a decade or longer. However, with age, these lines can corrode or crack, both internally and externally, causing a serious risk for failure. Stock replacements are fine, but upgraded stainless steel braided, Teflon lined hoses are available for many cars and trucks, and provide extra pressure due to their more resilient design.
Finally, there is the actual brake fluid. DOT 3 is the most common type (DOT standing for "Department of Transportation"), used for decades. Rarely seen, but readily available, is a DOT 4 substitute, which is still of the same chemical design, but has a higher boiling point. You see, brakes create heat, and excessive heat will eventually transfer to the brake fluid that is used to operate your hydraulic brakes. If that fluid boils, you will experience brake fade, whereas the brake pedal either becomes excessively mushy, or just drops to the floor due to loss of pressure. Since it is recommended that your brake fluid is flushed about every 30,000 to 50,000 miles, that is a good time to upgrade to DOT 4. There is a DOT 5, but it has a different base and cannot absorb moisture, so it is regulated to race cars only (all standard DOT brake fluids aggressively attract moisture, which degrades the fluid and can harm internal brake components, hence the need to flush the system regularly).
So, what are the other possible upgrades? First of all, keep in mind that your brake system should be visually inspected at least once a year. If it has been 3 years, or if more than 30,000 miles since your last brake inspection or repair, you are more than due. Regardless of how the brakes feel, take your car in (or do it yourself) immediately if that is the case.
OK, so the upgrades: one of the easiest is to upgrade to premium pads for disc brakes. Most manufacturers will install a pad that offers the best compromise between power, noise, and dust, but that rarely means you have the best pads available on your car. In almost every case, the pad offered as a factory replacement is superseded in the list of options by better pads that cost more, but do everything better too. Now, if you drive a Porsche or a Lambo, you might want to stick to the stock stuff, but even then, there are better pads to be had. So, the shortcut here is to get the most expensive pads available, provided they are not rated as "track pads," for autocross or racing only. What you are likely to notice is less noise, shorter stopping distances, and less dust, to be sure. The same basic advice goes for drum brake "shoes."
Another upgrade is in the disc itself. In many cases, the factory replacement will cost much more than options from leading aftermarket brake companies. Brembo is an excellent brand that builds discs of better material, with designs that improve upon most build parameters. If you have had a problem with your brake discs warping or cracking, get away from factory replacements or cheap-o off brands, and search out a good upgrade replacement.
Keep in mind that as to the design of brake discs, most have a flat surface, but some upgraded designs have flutes cut into the surface (often called slotted), while others may have small holes drilled in to them (referred to as cross drilled). These designs are intended to help remove water from the disc, and to help get rid of gasses that can build up between the disc surface and the pad under extreme use. Frankly, slotting is about as exotic as most street driven cars need to get, as cross drilled rotors can be prone to crack, but they give the car a racy look! The discs that have these features cost more, and are not available for every car on the road.
Is stock good enough? Depends upon the car, but again.....if you can't stop, you are certainly in deep trouble, and in many dangerous situations, being able to stop just a few feet shorter can be the difference between a close call, and calamity. It's worth the few extra bucks to improve upon a decent design, even if just a little. So check those brakes, and if any repair or replacement is necessary, do some investigation, and upgrade. You will be glad you did.
When you are driving along, and you come upon an octagon-shaped sign that is mostly red with a 4 letter word on it painted in white, what you take that sign to mean is....
A) "You may want to slow down somewhere in this vicinity"
B) "If there are no cars around, just keep going"
C) "Stop here, and then proceed lawfully"
D) "Gun it!"
E) "Stopping is for suckers and old people. I'm in a hurry"
F) "All of the above, except C"
Now, this author is sympathetic to the notion that coming to a full stop out in the middle of nowhere at an intersection that rarely sees 3 cars a day, with a full peripheral view of 300 yards in every direction, is subject to review, but that kind of scenario is the exception, not the norm. So, for those of us who drive on average surface streets laced with intersections, STOP signs have a very decided and useful purpose, which is - to keep us all from slamming into one another.
Before you yawn and dismiss this subject, just do a simple experiment: get a comfy lawn chair, meet some of your neighbors, and sit where you can see a local 4 way stop. As you relax, sipping sweet tea, take note of how average drivers treat that intersection. If all the roads leading to the intersection are full of cars, everyone stops, but note their lack of reasoning and judgment as to who has the right of way. Want to throw the "average" driver into a tizzy? Let them come upon a busy intersection where two cars arrive at the stopping point at the same time. It's like watching a cat chase its own tail. However, if that intersection is largely abandoned, or seeing low traffic flow, count how many drivers just blow through, with little semblance of even slowing down. You may be surprised to find that less than 20% even pretend to stop under such circumstances.
STOP means STOP. So, maybe it's not terribly important for your car to have time to rock back and forth due to the forces of inertia and so forth, but you know good and well what an actual stop is, and what is not. But this is where all you "average" drivers out there think that such discussions are unimportant and childish. After all, you are keeping an eye out, right? And this is YOUR neighborhood, after all! You drive these streets year in and year out, and you've never run into someone or over someone, so what's the big deal?
Big deal, indeed.
As with so many traffic laws, a STOP sign is there in the anticipation that at any given time, all four lanes leading into the intersection (or two, or three lanes, or more) could be occupied by a driver, and so the worst case scenario is always handled first. This is reasonable rationale when you get to the point that you understand that you are not the only driver on the road. There are other drivers out there, and their very safety depends upon both you and them obeying simple driving laws that take into account all possible scenarios.
The problem is this: when you make a habit of running through stop signs, sooner or later you are going to miss something. You are going to fail to see that child, bicyclist, or other motorist that assumes you will stop, and they begin to cross. But of course, you know this area, drive it all the time, and run that stop sign all the time, and so while you're engaged in useless conversation on your cell phone, while eating fries and drinking your beverage -- supremely sure that you are so "cool" -- you do what you have done in the past, and roll right through, but this time, something happens. That child is crushed, that bicyclist is bounced, or that car is crunched, and there you sit, with such a stupid look on your face, asking, "how did this happen?"
The universal law is this.....regardless of your supposed skill level, you will eventually make a mistake and miss something if you continue to run through stop signs. Stopping allows you to check, and then double check, every direction, looking for possible hazards as you obey the law. In this case, the law is very helpful and should be obeyed with care, if for no other reason than that the other driver approaching your intersection may be intending to run through too. Hate to see that bill!
Go ahead and stop. Doubt it will kill you.
Drive precise!
CAR CARE TIP OF THE DAY
Speaking of brakes....
Did you know that not all brakes are created equal? Did you know that when certain elements of your brake system need to be replaced, you often have options?
It's true! In fact, most people don't service their brakes themselves, so they just accept that whatever the service technician provides is the one and only choice. Even those that venture into the dark world of brake repair often miss the opportunity to upgrade and reap the benefits of shorter stopping distances, lower noise, and less brake dust.
If you drive a car less than 10 years old, it is very possible you have disc brakes at all four corners. Even if you have drum style brakes on the rear, you can still obtain upgraded components that will reap the benefits listed above. But first, a quick review of your major brake components.
A brake disc looks like a big metal pancake, often viewed behind the wheel of your car. It is round, has two flat sides, and will often be "vented" in the middle, which means that the two flat surfaces have hollowed out portions between them, providing better cooling. You see, your brakes essentially take forward motion and turn it into heat energy while exerting pressure on the rotating assembly. Therefore, your brake components get hot, and it is critical that your brake system can handle this heat. Many upgrade components deal with, and dissipate that heat more effectively than stock parts. Along with the discs, calipers hold disc brake "pads" that are pressed against the disc on both sides, providing the necessary friction to stop the car. This design is inherently efficient and has become the industry standard. Just 30 years ago, four wheel disc brakes were rarely seen on anything but the most exotic sports cars.
A drum brake system is older, but still fairly efficient at stopping. Drum brakes have brake "shoes" (they look like half moons) that exert pressure from the inside out upon a circular drum that rolls with the tires. This design is not as effective and powerful as disc brakes, but usually weighs slightly less and is the old standby.
Next up are brake lines. Standard brake lines are both solid (metal tubing) and flexible (rubber tubing) and will normally last a decade or longer. However, with age, these lines can corrode or crack, both internally and externally, causing a serious risk for failure. Stock replacements are fine, but upgraded stainless steel braided, Teflon lined hoses are available for many cars and trucks, and provide extra pressure due to their more resilient design.
Finally, there is the actual brake fluid. DOT 3 is the most common type (DOT standing for "Department of Transportation"), used for decades. Rarely seen, but readily available, is a DOT 4 substitute, which is still of the same chemical design, but has a higher boiling point. You see, brakes create heat, and excessive heat will eventually transfer to the brake fluid that is used to operate your hydraulic brakes. If that fluid boils, you will experience brake fade, whereas the brake pedal either becomes excessively mushy, or just drops to the floor due to loss of pressure. Since it is recommended that your brake fluid is flushed about every 30,000 to 50,000 miles, that is a good time to upgrade to DOT 4. There is a DOT 5, but it has a different base and cannot absorb moisture, so it is regulated to race cars only (all standard DOT brake fluids aggressively attract moisture, which degrades the fluid and can harm internal brake components, hence the need to flush the system regularly).
So, what are the other possible upgrades? First of all, keep in mind that your brake system should be visually inspected at least once a year. If it has been 3 years, or if more than 30,000 miles since your last brake inspection or repair, you are more than due. Regardless of how the brakes feel, take your car in (or do it yourself) immediately if that is the case.
OK, so the upgrades: one of the easiest is to upgrade to premium pads for disc brakes. Most manufacturers will install a pad that offers the best compromise between power, noise, and dust, but that rarely means you have the best pads available on your car. In almost every case, the pad offered as a factory replacement is superseded in the list of options by better pads that cost more, but do everything better too. Now, if you drive a Porsche or a Lambo, you might want to stick to the stock stuff, but even then, there are better pads to be had. So, the shortcut here is to get the most expensive pads available, provided they are not rated as "track pads," for autocross or racing only. What you are likely to notice is less noise, shorter stopping distances, and less dust, to be sure. The same basic advice goes for drum brake "shoes."
Another upgrade is in the disc itself. In many cases, the factory replacement will cost much more than options from leading aftermarket brake companies. Brembo is an excellent brand that builds discs of better material, with designs that improve upon most build parameters. If you have had a problem with your brake discs warping or cracking, get away from factory replacements or cheap-o off brands, and search out a good upgrade replacement.
Keep in mind that as to the design of brake discs, most have a flat surface, but some upgraded designs have flutes cut into the surface (often called slotted), while others may have small holes drilled in to them (referred to as cross drilled). These designs are intended to help remove water from the disc, and to help get rid of gasses that can build up between the disc surface and the pad under extreme use. Frankly, slotting is about as exotic as most street driven cars need to get, as cross drilled rotors can be prone to crack, but they give the car a racy look! The discs that have these features cost more, and are not available for every car on the road.
Is stock good enough? Depends upon the car, but again.....if you can't stop, you are certainly in deep trouble, and in many dangerous situations, being able to stop just a few feet shorter can be the difference between a close call, and calamity. It's worth the few extra bucks to improve upon a decent design, even if just a little. So check those brakes, and if any repair or replacement is necessary, do some investigation, and upgrade. You will be glad you did.
Monday, September 24, 2007
The Hare and the Tortoise
Consistency is the name of the game....
Have you ever tried to keep a consistent speed on a level, straight road? The better question is - can you keep a consistent speed, under almost all driving conditions? Regardless of whether you answer "yes" or "no," you need to read on.
The old fable of the tortoise and the hare was intended to show how dogmatic consistency can usually win out over inconsistent effort or concentration. I doubt Aesop had modern Interstates in mind when he wrote it, but he might as well have. It points out a truth that can be proven.
It is appalling how few American drivers will use their cruise control when traveling. Sure, the "cruise" option needs to be generally regulated to interstate travel, and not used in snow, heavy rain, or on overcrowded roadways. However, unless those conditions are present, using the cruise control can not only save time on a long journey, but usually, because so many drivers are awful at maintaining consistent speed, it can save gas too. Consistency does pay off!
Why is this true? For reasons listed above, but many more - most of you couldn't maintain a smooth, consistent speed if your life depended upon it. Even if you turned off the radio, shut your yapper, and put down that useless and unhealthy big gulp pitcher you're constantly sucking on, you'd still be stabbing the throttle like you're killing a spider. Why? Because you don't pay attention, and so you are constantly slowing down and speeding up, in an endless, wasteful cycle.
This activity, which is devoid of intelligence, doesn't just demonstrate itself on the highway. Inconsistent drivers make driving a living nightmare for others on surface streets in both rural and urban areas. The indiscriminatory ebb and flow of speed exhibited reveals a total lack of concentration and consideration for other drivers, much less the posted speed limits.
The argument over speed limits notwithstanding, if the speed limit posted is 35, and you choose to drive 30, then keep it at 30. If you are on the highway and the limit posted is 65, and you want to drive at 65, then keep it there. Pay attention! If you are indeed on a highway or interstate, it is very unlikely you will ever have any reason to slow down even one mile per hour, unless someone else does something really stupid, or you encounter an unusual circumstance. Therefore, if your chosen speed is 65, then keep it at 65 -- uphill, downhill, around gentle curves, at night or day, windy or not. This requires concentration (something the average driver demonstrates little of) but the payoff is big.
That payoff comes in at least 3 classes: economy, flow, and timeliness. Economy refers to maintaining your steady speed with finesse and forethought. This style of driving will yield greater mpg and will result in minuscule reductions of wear on your automobile. Just as messing with your home thermostat will yield higher utilities, constantly speeding up and slowing down will yield lower mpg. "Flow" pertains to traffic flow -- if every driver in American would doggedly maintain a consistent speed tomorrow, traffic problems would reduce by 50%, guaranteed. If everyone is consistent, traffic flows better due to increased predictability and by avoiding the domino effect (whereas one car slows for no reason, that car can cause dozens of others to slow, interrupting flow) that so plagues congested areas on our roadways. Timeliness refers to the tortoise, because we know he won the race, right? But how? Because consistent driving, especially on a longer trip, will result in less travel time. If you can maintain an average of 65 miles per hour for 4 hours, you will get to your destination in less time than the idiot who speeds up and slows down over the same 250 mile trip. What that idiot may not realize is that with his inconsistency, he may only be averaging 60 miles per hour, and that he is wasting gas by having to speed up continually.
Aside from your own benefits, consistent speeds really do aid in traffic flow, benefiting everyone on the road. So, if you are going to drive like a tortoise, then keep it consistent, and stay in the right lane. If you are going to drive like a hare, keep it at hare speed and only move towards the left to pass or turn, and then get your fluffy tail back in the right lane. That way, both the tortoise and the hare can live in harmony, and arrive at their destinations in one piece, and in harmony.
Oh, Aesop failed to mention that the hare would always handily win, and suffer no meaningful consequences, if he would just pace himself and focus more upon consistency than bursts of speed. Translation? On the highway or interstate, you can cut hours off a long trip by keeping a consistent speed at the highest allowed by law. Or, just keep stabbing that throttle and stretch a 4 hour trip into 5 1/2.
Drive Precise!
Car Care Tip of the Day: Oxygen Sensors
What is an oxygen sensor, and why should you care? Well, every modern car has an oxygen sensor, located on the exhaust pipe of your car, usually close to the exhaust manifold. It threads into a welded-on bung and usually has 2- 4 wires coming from it. It's purpose is to "sniff" the exhaust of your engine, determining how well your engine is burning the fuel and air that makes combustion. If your engine is cold, or has a mechanical problem, the oxygen sensor communicates this information to the on-board computer, and revised calculations are made to try to keep the air/ fuel ratio at the optimum setting (usually 14.5 to 1).
If the oxygen sensor loses function, your engine will not be able to adjust properly to a variety of conditions, and you will begin to lose efficiency and performance. However, such losses will be very gradual, as most oxygen sensors go bad over time, gradually losing their ability to function properly. You may not notice until your engine begins to really run poorly.
This is why most manufacturers recommend that you change the O2 sensor about every 30 - 40,000 miles. It is a routine maintenance item, just like changing coolant or thermostats or belts. It may not be talked about as much, but it can greatly affect the performance and economy of your car. What's more, most are relatively inexpensive, and for the competent shade tree mechanic, they can usually be changed at home in less than an hour, or less. Otherwise, have the people who change your oil add it to that maintenance and it can be done lickety split.
If your car has over 40,000 miles, or if you bought it used and you don't know if it has ever been changed, go ahead and replace it and enjoy faster starting, smoother running, and better efficiency right away.
Have you ever tried to keep a consistent speed on a level, straight road? The better question is - can you keep a consistent speed, under almost all driving conditions? Regardless of whether you answer "yes" or "no," you need to read on.
The old fable of the tortoise and the hare was intended to show how dogmatic consistency can usually win out over inconsistent effort or concentration. I doubt Aesop had modern Interstates in mind when he wrote it, but he might as well have. It points out a truth that can be proven.
It is appalling how few American drivers will use their cruise control when traveling. Sure, the "cruise" option needs to be generally regulated to interstate travel, and not used in snow, heavy rain, or on overcrowded roadways. However, unless those conditions are present, using the cruise control can not only save time on a long journey, but usually, because so many drivers are awful at maintaining consistent speed, it can save gas too. Consistency does pay off!
Why is this true? For reasons listed above, but many more - most of you couldn't maintain a smooth, consistent speed if your life depended upon it. Even if you turned off the radio, shut your yapper, and put down that useless and unhealthy big gulp pitcher you're constantly sucking on, you'd still be stabbing the throttle like you're killing a spider. Why? Because you don't pay attention, and so you are constantly slowing down and speeding up, in an endless, wasteful cycle.
This activity, which is devoid of intelligence, doesn't just demonstrate itself on the highway. Inconsistent drivers make driving a living nightmare for others on surface streets in both rural and urban areas. The indiscriminatory ebb and flow of speed exhibited reveals a total lack of concentration and consideration for other drivers, much less the posted speed limits.
The argument over speed limits notwithstanding, if the speed limit posted is 35, and you choose to drive 30, then keep it at 30. If you are on the highway and the limit posted is 65, and you want to drive at 65, then keep it there. Pay attention! If you are indeed on a highway or interstate, it is very unlikely you will ever have any reason to slow down even one mile per hour, unless someone else does something really stupid, or you encounter an unusual circumstance. Therefore, if your chosen speed is 65, then keep it at 65 -- uphill, downhill, around gentle curves, at night or day, windy or not. This requires concentration (something the average driver demonstrates little of) but the payoff is big.
That payoff comes in at least 3 classes: economy, flow, and timeliness. Economy refers to maintaining your steady speed with finesse and forethought. This style of driving will yield greater mpg and will result in minuscule reductions of wear on your automobile. Just as messing with your home thermostat will yield higher utilities, constantly speeding up and slowing down will yield lower mpg. "Flow" pertains to traffic flow -- if every driver in American would doggedly maintain a consistent speed tomorrow, traffic problems would reduce by 50%, guaranteed. If everyone is consistent, traffic flows better due to increased predictability and by avoiding the domino effect (whereas one car slows for no reason, that car can cause dozens of others to slow, interrupting flow) that so plagues congested areas on our roadways. Timeliness refers to the tortoise, because we know he won the race, right? But how? Because consistent driving, especially on a longer trip, will result in less travel time. If you can maintain an average of 65 miles per hour for 4 hours, you will get to your destination in less time than the idiot who speeds up and slows down over the same 250 mile trip. What that idiot may not realize is that with his inconsistency, he may only be averaging 60 miles per hour, and that he is wasting gas by having to speed up continually.
Aside from your own benefits, consistent speeds really do aid in traffic flow, benefiting everyone on the road. So, if you are going to drive like a tortoise, then keep it consistent, and stay in the right lane. If you are going to drive like a hare, keep it at hare speed and only move towards the left to pass or turn, and then get your fluffy tail back in the right lane. That way, both the tortoise and the hare can live in harmony, and arrive at their destinations in one piece, and in harmony.
Oh, Aesop failed to mention that the hare would always handily win, and suffer no meaningful consequences, if he would just pace himself and focus more upon consistency than bursts of speed. Translation? On the highway or interstate, you can cut hours off a long trip by keeping a consistent speed at the highest allowed by law. Or, just keep stabbing that throttle and stretch a 4 hour trip into 5 1/2.
Drive Precise!
Car Care Tip of the Day: Oxygen Sensors
What is an oxygen sensor, and why should you care? Well, every modern car has an oxygen sensor, located on the exhaust pipe of your car, usually close to the exhaust manifold. It threads into a welded-on bung and usually has 2- 4 wires coming from it. It's purpose is to "sniff" the exhaust of your engine, determining how well your engine is burning the fuel and air that makes combustion. If your engine is cold, or has a mechanical problem, the oxygen sensor communicates this information to the on-board computer, and revised calculations are made to try to keep the air/ fuel ratio at the optimum setting (usually 14.5 to 1).
If the oxygen sensor loses function, your engine will not be able to adjust properly to a variety of conditions, and you will begin to lose efficiency and performance. However, such losses will be very gradual, as most oxygen sensors go bad over time, gradually losing their ability to function properly. You may not notice until your engine begins to really run poorly.
This is why most manufacturers recommend that you change the O2 sensor about every 30 - 40,000 miles. It is a routine maintenance item, just like changing coolant or thermostats or belts. It may not be talked about as much, but it can greatly affect the performance and economy of your car. What's more, most are relatively inexpensive, and for the competent shade tree mechanic, they can usually be changed at home in less than an hour, or less. Otherwise, have the people who change your oil add it to that maintenance and it can be done lickety split.
If your car has over 40,000 miles, or if you bought it used and you don't know if it has ever been changed, go ahead and replace it and enjoy faster starting, smoother running, and better efficiency right away.
Tuesday, September 11, 2007
Get Right....not Left
Here in America, we drive on the right side of the road...
If there is one thing that annoys me to no end, it is to be driving through a neighborhood, parking lot, or any other road way that does not have a dividing line in the middle, and be almost run over or sideswiped by some other motorists who is driving either in the middle of the road, or all the way in the left lane.
OK, so maybe, once in a blue moon, that motorist I am passing and swapping paint with is a new British-born immigrant, or maybe a temporary visitor. If that were the case, I would just wave my hand and give them a friendly "tally ho!" and be on my way to pick up some fish and chips at the local pub. But you know that this is not the typical scenario. It is far, far worse.
So let's get it out in the open that most American motorists know to drive on the right side of the road. Let's also admit that most motorists can be divided into one of three camps, as to where on the right side of the road they most often remain: far right, middle, or far left. Mind you, I am talking about still being squarely in the right lane, however wide it may or may not be, so those 3 camps simply refer to your normal orientation within the right lane. Anywho, I am a middle driver, and I hope most of you resolve to be either a middler like me, or at least, a far righter. For those of you who gravitate towards the dark far left, beware. My vehicle is thoroughly waxed, large, and I will happily pilot it so close to your left side door handle you'd swear you could smell my breath as I pass by your far left oriented heap.
Now to the matter at hand - specifically - staying on the right side of the road, whether there is a dividing line or not. Allow me to go into my fit for the day: What is up with you people who insist on driving right down the middle of the road, or worse-- driving all the way in the left lane? Does it make you feel better? Are you more secure over there? Does your wheel not go towards the right? Have you ever thought about the fact that another motorist will now have to either stop, swerve to miss you, or.....perish the thought.....you encounter ME when pulling such a stunt, and you find yourself in immediate peril? I mean, does it take a white line to remind you that you live in America?
Thank you. I feel better. However, the situation at hand is not resolved just yet. I challenge you to take a test, dear reader. The next time you are driving through a quiet neighborhood, or in a parking lot, etc., watch other drivers for this behavior, and better yet, watch yourself. Sure, there may be a car parked half in a yard and half in the street in your neighborhood, but that doesn't mean you have to go all the way over to the left lane to go around, and then, oh-so-slowly finally make your way back to the right side. If you can't tell whether or not you have a foot or so of clearance between your car and the car on the side of the road, you have bigger problems than right or left sideness. You have perception and visibility problems that will ultimately spell doom for you. No kidding. Adjust your mirrors, sit up in the seat, buy a smaller car with bigger windows - or whatever it takes. If you have to have 5 feet of clearance when 2 feet is more than enough, you need to hand over the keys. You are a menace on the road, waiting for an accident to happen.
Most accidents on America's highways are either frontal, or partial-frontal collisions. A portion are due to alcohol, but most are from distracted or inattentive drivers who just love to gravitate towards the middle of the road. Listen, as many blonde women as there are in this country wizzing through mall parking lots in their big SUV right down the middle of the lane, it's a wonder we don't have millions of deaths in those parking lots every year.
The Main Point is This: Always, always, always drive either squarely in the middle, or better yet, towards the right side of the right lane in all cases. There ARE other drivers on the road, and no two cars can occupy the same space in the middle of the road. So put down the brush, comb, cell phone, or beverage, pay attention to where you are in the road, and remember that here in America, it's the right side.
If you want to get left, hop across the pond and have fun. Just do us a favor and stay there.
Car Care Tip of the Month (or Summer)
Summer is basically gone, so I won't bore you with details about how to summerize your car. However, the same basic tips apply all year round, so let's review some things to keep in mind automotively as fall and winter approach.
Unless you live in the deep south, winter time is usually harder on your car overall than summer, so take these tips to heart especially if you live close to the Mason/Dixon:
1. Wax: when it's cold, it is almost impossible to wax your car. Do it now, and then again later in the fall when you have one of those unusually warm days before winter sets in. Salt and ice and dirty snow wreak havoc on your paint, and running the vehicle through the car wash as a last resort is caustic at best. Wax, wax, and more wax. Once a month truly would not be unwarranted, so twice a year is a no brainer.
2. Electrical system tune-up: winter brings with it a bigger load on your alternator and battery. Lights, defroster, fan on high, radio, and rear window defroster-- sometimes all of these and more are called upon at one time, and it's a load electrically. Combine that with the fact that your battery is less effective and efficient in cold climates, and you have potential trouble. (this is why most batteries go out in cold weather). So, clean your battery connections thoroughly, and replace cables that may be cracking or showing wear. Clean the connection at the alternator too. If you drive infrequently and for short distances, invest in a battery charger and use it once a week, following instructions closely. Clean your windshield with a scraper before getting in and hitting the defrost on high. Don't run the radio when the load is on. Only use the rear defroster as long as necessary. Lighten the electrical load whenever possible and you may make it through the winter with the battery intact. (keep the inside of your windows clean all year round and it'll make a huge difference on defrosting requirements!)
3. Tires: Now is a good time to rotate them if necessary. Inflate them all to the highest number posted on the sidewall, and check that spare too! If they are about done, consider replacing them before nasty winter hits.
4. Lights: have someone help you do an outside check of all lights, blinker and stop bulbs, including backup lights, etc. Make sure they are all working, and replace any that are needed. In the winter, visibility is king, and you want to be seen in all conditions. If any of your headlights have water vapor in them, or are cloudy or just simply have been in the car for more than 5- 7 years, replace the bulbs. You don't have to wait until they are burned out, as all bulbs lose candle power over their life span. While at it, replace them with a brighter, whiter bulb upgrade. Consult your parts house manager for ideas or suggestions. Again, in the dark of winter, in the middle of a nasty rain/snow storm, being able to see is supreme.
5. Emergency Kit: get that cell phone charger back in the console. Throw an old blanket in the trunk. Get one of those flashlights that you only have to shake to power up. Have a bottle of water handy all the time. Consider buying a small kit with a few flares or traffic triangles. Put a few "power bars" in the glovebox. Think ahead, and take action.
6. The old Tune Up: Nowdays, a tune up is somewhat familiar to the old days, but in a new way. Replace spark plugs regardless of style or make if they have been in there more than 60,000 miles. If you've bought a used car, replace them regardless. It's fairly cheap, easy in most applications, and good insurance. Replace the air filter. Check the belt(s) for any wear. Again, if you see cracks or it's been more than 40,000 miles since last replacement, do it. Cheap, fairly easy, and a life saver, especially in the icy/wet/cold times of winter. Don't forget about the oxygen sensor. Most people do and then complain about an engine that hesitates or uses too much gas or is hard to start in the winter. Replace this sensor every 40- 50,000 miles and you will have happy motoring. Finally, clean the throttle body. If you don't know how, have someone do this relatively easy task for you, which consists of basically spraying some carburetor cleaner into the throttle body opening, upon the throttle blade, and wiping away all the collected carbon in this area. Result? Better idling, faster starting, and better throttle response.
Well, here's to precise driving, in all conditions. I promise to be more prudent and timely in my forthcoming installments of this fine blog.
If there is one thing that annoys me to no end, it is to be driving through a neighborhood, parking lot, or any other road way that does not have a dividing line in the middle, and be almost run over or sideswiped by some other motorists who is driving either in the middle of the road, or all the way in the left lane.
OK, so maybe, once in a blue moon, that motorist I am passing and swapping paint with is a new British-born immigrant, or maybe a temporary visitor. If that were the case, I would just wave my hand and give them a friendly "tally ho!" and be on my way to pick up some fish and chips at the local pub. But you know that this is not the typical scenario. It is far, far worse.
So let's get it out in the open that most American motorists know to drive on the right side of the road. Let's also admit that most motorists can be divided into one of three camps, as to where on the right side of the road they most often remain: far right, middle, or far left. Mind you, I am talking about still being squarely in the right lane, however wide it may or may not be, so those 3 camps simply refer to your normal orientation within the right lane. Anywho, I am a middle driver, and I hope most of you resolve to be either a middler like me, or at least, a far righter. For those of you who gravitate towards the dark far left, beware. My vehicle is thoroughly waxed, large, and I will happily pilot it so close to your left side door handle you'd swear you could smell my breath as I pass by your far left oriented heap.
Now to the matter at hand - specifically - staying on the right side of the road, whether there is a dividing line or not. Allow me to go into my fit for the day: What is up with you people who insist on driving right down the middle of the road, or worse-- driving all the way in the left lane? Does it make you feel better? Are you more secure over there? Does your wheel not go towards the right? Have you ever thought about the fact that another motorist will now have to either stop, swerve to miss you, or.....perish the thought.....you encounter ME when pulling such a stunt, and you find yourself in immediate peril? I mean, does it take a white line to remind you that you live in America?
Thank you. I feel better. However, the situation at hand is not resolved just yet. I challenge you to take a test, dear reader. The next time you are driving through a quiet neighborhood, or in a parking lot, etc., watch other drivers for this behavior, and better yet, watch yourself. Sure, there may be a car parked half in a yard and half in the street in your neighborhood, but that doesn't mean you have to go all the way over to the left lane to go around, and then, oh-so-slowly finally make your way back to the right side. If you can't tell whether or not you have a foot or so of clearance between your car and the car on the side of the road, you have bigger problems than right or left sideness. You have perception and visibility problems that will ultimately spell doom for you. No kidding. Adjust your mirrors, sit up in the seat, buy a smaller car with bigger windows - or whatever it takes. If you have to have 5 feet of clearance when 2 feet is more than enough, you need to hand over the keys. You are a menace on the road, waiting for an accident to happen.
Most accidents on America's highways are either frontal, or partial-frontal collisions. A portion are due to alcohol, but most are from distracted or inattentive drivers who just love to gravitate towards the middle of the road. Listen, as many blonde women as there are in this country wizzing through mall parking lots in their big SUV right down the middle of the lane, it's a wonder we don't have millions of deaths in those parking lots every year.
The Main Point is This: Always, always, always drive either squarely in the middle, or better yet, towards the right side of the right lane in all cases. There ARE other drivers on the road, and no two cars can occupy the same space in the middle of the road. So put down the brush, comb, cell phone, or beverage, pay attention to where you are in the road, and remember that here in America, it's the right side.
If you want to get left, hop across the pond and have fun. Just do us a favor and stay there.
Car Care Tip of the Month (or Summer)
Summer is basically gone, so I won't bore you with details about how to summerize your car. However, the same basic tips apply all year round, so let's review some things to keep in mind automotively as fall and winter approach.
Unless you live in the deep south, winter time is usually harder on your car overall than summer, so take these tips to heart especially if you live close to the Mason/Dixon:
1. Wax: when it's cold, it is almost impossible to wax your car. Do it now, and then again later in the fall when you have one of those unusually warm days before winter sets in. Salt and ice and dirty snow wreak havoc on your paint, and running the vehicle through the car wash as a last resort is caustic at best. Wax, wax, and more wax. Once a month truly would not be unwarranted, so twice a year is a no brainer.
2. Electrical system tune-up: winter brings with it a bigger load on your alternator and battery. Lights, defroster, fan on high, radio, and rear window defroster-- sometimes all of these and more are called upon at one time, and it's a load electrically. Combine that with the fact that your battery is less effective and efficient in cold climates, and you have potential trouble. (this is why most batteries go out in cold weather). So, clean your battery connections thoroughly, and replace cables that may be cracking or showing wear. Clean the connection at the alternator too. If you drive infrequently and for short distances, invest in a battery charger and use it once a week, following instructions closely. Clean your windshield with a scraper before getting in and hitting the defrost on high. Don't run the radio when the load is on. Only use the rear defroster as long as necessary. Lighten the electrical load whenever possible and you may make it through the winter with the battery intact. (keep the inside of your windows clean all year round and it'll make a huge difference on defrosting requirements!)
3. Tires: Now is a good time to rotate them if necessary. Inflate them all to the highest number posted on the sidewall, and check that spare too! If they are about done, consider replacing them before nasty winter hits.
4. Lights: have someone help you do an outside check of all lights, blinker and stop bulbs, including backup lights, etc. Make sure they are all working, and replace any that are needed. In the winter, visibility is king, and you want to be seen in all conditions. If any of your headlights have water vapor in them, or are cloudy or just simply have been in the car for more than 5- 7 years, replace the bulbs. You don't have to wait until they are burned out, as all bulbs lose candle power over their life span. While at it, replace them with a brighter, whiter bulb upgrade. Consult your parts house manager for ideas or suggestions. Again, in the dark of winter, in the middle of a nasty rain/snow storm, being able to see is supreme.
5. Emergency Kit: get that cell phone charger back in the console. Throw an old blanket in the trunk. Get one of those flashlights that you only have to shake to power up. Have a bottle of water handy all the time. Consider buying a small kit with a few flares or traffic triangles. Put a few "power bars" in the glovebox. Think ahead, and take action.
6. The old Tune Up: Nowdays, a tune up is somewhat familiar to the old days, but in a new way. Replace spark plugs regardless of style or make if they have been in there more than 60,000 miles. If you've bought a used car, replace them regardless. It's fairly cheap, easy in most applications, and good insurance. Replace the air filter. Check the belt(s) for any wear. Again, if you see cracks or it's been more than 40,000 miles since last replacement, do it. Cheap, fairly easy, and a life saver, especially in the icy/wet/cold times of winter. Don't forget about the oxygen sensor. Most people do and then complain about an engine that hesitates or uses too much gas or is hard to start in the winter. Replace this sensor every 40- 50,000 miles and you will have happy motoring. Finally, clean the throttle body. If you don't know how, have someone do this relatively easy task for you, which consists of basically spraying some carburetor cleaner into the throttle body opening, upon the throttle blade, and wiping away all the collected carbon in this area. Result? Better idling, faster starting, and better throttle response.
Well, here's to precise driving, in all conditions. I promise to be more prudent and timely in my forthcoming installments of this fine blog.
Thursday, May 31, 2007
Life In The Fast Lane
"Do you think you own that lane, fella?!"
Have you ever found yourself saying that while driving? Maybe it was said about you by another driver. Either way, it doesn't matter, so long as you're habitually driving in the right, or right-most lanes. If that is you, then you will likely remove such a saying from your vocabulary, or will remove it from the vocabulary of your fellow drivers.
No matter who you are, or where you live, you will at one time or another ( or maybe daily ) encounter a driving situation where you have a choice of lanes. It may be a right and left lane, or multiple lanes where you can choose between 4 or more. The point is - we need to discuss the purpose of the left lane, since so many of the driving public don't seem to have a clue.
Many years ago, the flaming left wing liberal, Sam Donaldson, did "a piece" on drivers exceeding the speed limit. His highly suspect and very predictable test was devised by taking a panel van full of video equipment, and hitting the road, staying exactly at the speed limit, while driving exclusively in the left lane all over a large city. They taped the reaction of other drivers and as you can imagine, they got some good footage of people flipping them off, honking their horns, flashing their lights, and just using abusive language in general. Of course, old Sammy didn't mention that part of their control was to remain exclusively in the left lane. I just noted that myself, being an astute watcher and driver. Then the whole "experiment" made sense. It was rigged, and the outcome was very predictable.
Why was the outcome predictable? Because of the widely known, but rarely practiced, "unwritten" rule about the left lane. I say "unwritten" because while such notions as I will list later are not strict rules, they are mentioned in almost all driving handbooks. So, here are the "unofficial" but widely accepted rules concerning the use of the left lane:
Have you ever found yourself saying that while driving? Maybe it was said about you by another driver. Either way, it doesn't matter, so long as you're habitually driving in the right, or right-most lanes. If that is you, then you will likely remove such a saying from your vocabulary, or will remove it from the vocabulary of your fellow drivers.
No matter who you are, or where you live, you will at one time or another ( or maybe daily ) encounter a driving situation where you have a choice of lanes. It may be a right and left lane, or multiple lanes where you can choose between 4 or more. The point is - we need to discuss the purpose of the left lane, since so many of the driving public don't seem to have a clue.
Many years ago, the flaming left wing liberal, Sam Donaldson, did "a piece" on drivers exceeding the speed limit. His highly suspect and very predictable test was devised by taking a panel van full of video equipment, and hitting the road, staying exactly at the speed limit, while driving exclusively in the left lane all over a large city. They taped the reaction of other drivers and as you can imagine, they got some good footage of people flipping them off, honking their horns, flashing their lights, and just using abusive language in general. Of course, old Sammy didn't mention that part of their control was to remain exclusively in the left lane. I just noted that myself, being an astute watcher and driver. Then the whole "experiment" made sense. It was rigged, and the outcome was very predictable.
Why was the outcome predictable? Because of the widely known, but rarely practiced, "unwritten" rule about the left lane. I say "unwritten" because while such notions as I will list later are not strict rules, they are mentioned in almost all driving handbooks. So, here are the "unofficial" but widely accepted rules concerning the use of the left lane:
- It is to be used for passing (other slower moving vehicles keep to the right)
- It is used for turning (left lane exits, left hand turns, etc.)
- It is used for faster moving vehicles (OK, so maybe a little over the speed limit)
- It should be used for all emergency vehicles
Sounds perfectly reasonable, right? But why is the left lane so often bogged down with traffic and confusion? Because those drivers who are not precision drivers think the following rules apply to the left lane:
- It is for casual driving, far away from exit ramps and such
- It is for those who will not be exiting the freeway or road for some time
- It is for anyone, regardless of their speed or destination, just like any other lane
- It is for the lapse minded, distracted, and preoccupied driver
- It is a great place to drive slow, so as to frustrate those drivers who are "driving too fast"
- "It's my lane!"
Of course, by reading my comments, you can see the difference, but some of you reading this blog (if there is more than 4, I'd be surprised) use the left lane, with the intentional, or subconscious reasons listed in the second list. To that end, I must add the following....
I have always reasoned that the majority of traffic problems could be virtually eliminated if everyone would just observe the following rules: Maintain a consistent speed, use your blinker when passing or turning, and do your best to maintain a right lane presence, except for passing or turning. May sound simple, but trust me - if 50% of the drivers on the road would adhere to those 3 simple rules, I firmly believe that 80% of all traffic problems would be eliminated. Staying out of the left lane unless you are passing or turning would be a major factor in that equation.
Let's face it - there are plenty of people out there who live to frustrate other drivers. They speed up and slow down to box people in, they cut you off when you try to pass them, they slow down if you get a little too close, and so on. And so many people will purposefully move to the left lane if they sense you may be trying to move faster than them. What is worse, is that those same people will slow down when moving to a left lane, but will speed up when moving back to the right! This is insane driving! YOU ALWAYS SPEED UP, THE FURTHER LEFT YOU GO! So don't try to be smart and make a point by finally getting out of the left lane and gunning the gas as you move right. All that does is prove what a moron you are, and how backwards you think.
As for moving faster in the left lane -- face it that there are some who will risk the tickets in order to move a little beyond the speed limit. Don't get frustrated at them - just let them go and hopefully, the cops will ticket them instead of you! Think of these left lane racers as ticket magnets. Don't make juvenile attempts at slowing them down....just move over (you shouldn't be in the left lane anyway) and let them speed on. It's the best way.
Now, if you drive like me, and some of you do, then the left lane is almost a necessity, since I am almost always pushing how fast I can get away with driving. However, if someone is moving faster than me, I will speed up and get over to the right to let them pass. See the previous paragraph for the reason why. Note that I speed up and move to the right. I don't slow down, or take all day to get over. If someone is driving faster than me, you can bet the cops will be keying in on them. And besides, what do I care if they're driving faster?
Folks, consider the left lane forbidden territory that you dare not invade, if but for just a few moments to make it possible for you to maintain consistency and safety. If, however, you find yourself on your cell phone (verboten!), languishing away in the left lane, with half a dozen angry drivers tailing behind you, do the right thing and move over ASAP. And stay over. Do this, and you'll avoid seeing yourself on one of Sam Donaldson's idiotic, flaming left wing "specials" on driving. Wait - you won't see Sam on any TV show, and we should all be thankful for that. Maybe he sealed his fate when he proclaimed, "I believe people don't kill people, but guns kill people." Sigh....those were good days.
Stay out of the left lane!
Car Care Tip of the Month: WAX
Is your car's paint dull, dirty, and generally unattractive? Maybe that better describes your husband or pet, but if it is your car, there is lots you can do, with little investment of time or money.
I want to end all the confusion about car wax. Basically, there are two prominent companies that I trust (in terms of their product): Mothers, and Meguiars. Both offer a bevy of car care products, and in the past, they often resorted to offering too many use-specific types, adding to confusion. So, to the point, the 3 you need to know about are:
- Car Cleaner/ Wax
- Polishes
- Carnuba (pure wax)
Let's take each, in order. First, the car/cleaner types are just that - they clean first, and add a little wax to the mix. Think in terms of a rather aggressive soap for your body. Cleaning and removing dirt is the first priority, with a little lotion thrown in. Your car's paint is much like your skin, in that it can dry out and get cracked as it is exposed to the elements. The cleaner-waxes are designed to remove the oxidation from your paint (provided it hasn't been waxed properly or in some time) so that you can move on to other steps that will bring your paint back to it's full luster and protection.
Polishes (both Mothers and Meguiars now offer 3 step products labeled as I listed above) are designed to add luster and depth to the color of your paint. Polishes are not intended to remove oxidation, nor do they contain decent amounts of wax. They merely add emollients that when covered with a good Carnuba wax, will make your paint look shiney and wet all the time.
Finally, my favorite part - the wax. Yes folks, most "wax" products out there are actually Cleaner/Waxes, but if you get a true Carnuba wax (in liquid or paste form) you are finally ready to add a protective layer of wax to your car's paint that will last for months. Notice I did not say years. No wax will last years, much less 6 months. It must be applied often (I recommend a minimum of twice yearly, but 4 times a year is so much better) but the good new is this.......if you will follow the 3 step process (cleaner/wax, polish, then Carnuba) just once, all you have to do the rest of the life of your car is repeat the application of the Carnuba 2 to 4 times a year, and that's it! What's more, the more often you do it, the easier it is to apply and rub off.
Aside from the benefit of a better looking car, waxing properly and often also makes your vehicle so much easier to clean, and it will add to the resale value. Bugs will wash right off (no harsh chemicals or scrubbing necessary) and dirt will not stick nearly as well. I can tell by casually observing that there are not many of you out there that give a crap about your car's appearance, so keep this in mind........that vehicle in your driveway is likely the second most expensive investiment you will make in your life, behind your home. Doesn't it deserve a few hours work every 6 months or so? Besides, it's great exercise, and a good way for couples and families to share in an activity together. So get to the store, get some decent products, and shine that ride!
Friday, April 27, 2007
Signs, Signs, Everywhere There's Signs
Words actually mean something.
Take for instance, the word "Yield." It's not a word we often use in everyday conversations, but it is a word recognized in the English dictionary, with references to "allowing to pass; to give way; to relent; to stand by." Most of you would give similar descriptions to the word Yield.
Now take the word "Merge." Again, it's not commonly used in friendly conversations, but most of you with at least 2 brain cells working know enough to know that Merge pertains to ideas such as "to fall in; to join mutually; to form an alliance; to go from many to one," and so on.
So, let's take these two simple, understandable words on the road with us, shall we? Look around your familiar driving routes and you will undoubtedly find one of these two words (or both) on a sign that looks like a triangle. The "Yield" sign will usually be yellow (but sometimes white with a red outline) and the Merge sign will usually be of a similar configuration. Either way, the important thing to note is that the two words have distinctly different meanings when it comes to traffic directions. And yet, it seems as if the driving public is either disinterested, or so insanely ignorant that they cannot tell the difference. That is why I am here.
When you are entering or exiting a main thoroughfare, you will often encounter either a "Yield" or "Merge" sign. There are reasons for these signs, as there are reasons for all the other signs we are blessed to have in the good ol' US of A. So, let me review for you the difference, and as always, this information may save your life, or at least your fender.
When you are driving and encounter a "Yield" sign (entering a roadway, or leaving one, typically) what that sign means is this: If there are any other cars presently on the road you are intending to intersect, you must either slow down to allow them to pass, or STOP until they all pass. YIELD does not mean:
Take for instance, the word "Yield." It's not a word we often use in everyday conversations, but it is a word recognized in the English dictionary, with references to "allowing to pass; to give way; to relent; to stand by." Most of you would give similar descriptions to the word Yield.
Now take the word "Merge." Again, it's not commonly used in friendly conversations, but most of you with at least 2 brain cells working know enough to know that Merge pertains to ideas such as "to fall in; to join mutually; to form an alliance; to go from many to one," and so on.
So, let's take these two simple, understandable words on the road with us, shall we? Look around your familiar driving routes and you will undoubtedly find one of these two words (or both) on a sign that looks like a triangle. The "Yield" sign will usually be yellow (but sometimes white with a red outline) and the Merge sign will usually be of a similar configuration. Either way, the important thing to note is that the two words have distinctly different meanings when it comes to traffic directions. And yet, it seems as if the driving public is either disinterested, or so insanely ignorant that they cannot tell the difference. That is why I am here.
When you are entering or exiting a main thoroughfare, you will often encounter either a "Yield" or "Merge" sign. There are reasons for these signs, as there are reasons for all the other signs we are blessed to have in the good ol' US of A. So, let me review for you the difference, and as always, this information may save your life, or at least your fender.
When you are driving and encounter a "Yield" sign (entering a roadway, or leaving one, typically) what that sign means is this: If there are any other cars presently on the road you are intending to intersect, you must either slow down to allow them to pass, or STOP until they all pass. YIELD does not mean:
- continue on, and let everyone else accommodate your presence
- ignore the obvious sign and blindly go on
- find a gap and squeeeeeeze into it, making other drivers accommodate your sorry....
- continue to talk on your cell and eat your fries and hope everything turns out OK
- Gas it and try to beat the lead car on the road you are intersecting
What does Yield mean? Did we not cover this already? For review, it means to "give way, to allow to pass, to stand by", etc. So, how does this play out in everyday driving life? Simple. Next time you are intersecting a road with a Yield sign, simply slow down and look for traffic on the road you are entering. If there are ANY cars on that road that would have to slow down or swerve due to your presence, you simply continue to slow down, or stop, as the situation dictates. If, and this is a big time possibility, someone behind you starts honking or yelling at you, I suggest you calmly point to the sign and maintain your vigilance to obey the rules of the road. Maybe you will teach the ignorant and irate motorist behind you a valuable lesson. For you see, if I am in that lane that has the right of way, and you are in the lane that is to Yield, and you try to squeeze or weasel your way in around me, I am going to change your world. That is the nicest way I can put it.
Now, how about the Merge situation? Well, if there is a Merge sign where roads are intersecting, you can bet the traffic planners knew that the best way to maintain flow there was to allow both, or all lanes involved to keep moving and hopefully good driving habits will prevail and everyone will just slow a bit, and move on. When you encounter a Merge situation, the best thing to do is to try to keep your speed up as much as possible (within posted limits) and just slowly move towards any opening that presents itself. Basically, what you want to do is to emulate the practices of those who are stupid enough to try to Merge when they are supposed to Yield! Face it folks - in most of the world outside the US, Merging is a major way of life. Third world countries practically found their traffic strategies upon the Merge principal. Frankly, they do it quite well. It is here in the land of the self-absorbed individual that we cannot seem to make Merging and Yielding work. It doesn't work well for us here because we are a society of people who are arrogant, self-absorbed, and selfish. Observing how motorist react to a Yield sign tells me a lot about our view of society and self. What I see is too much ego- centrism and too little desire to see we are all part of a team.
Does your driving reflect your attitude towards life, and others? You may find out the next time you encounter either a Yield or Merge sign.
Car Care Tip of the Month
Shock absorbers are the unknown soldiers of the automotive world. They soldier on, doing their duty to keep you from oscillating off the road, all in the unseen confines of your suspension. But what are they for? What do they do? Do they have to be replaced?
Shocks (for short) are tubular devices with an internal piston that are designed to keep your springs and suspension from bouncing unduly. Basically, if you left the average car's suspension the same, but just took the shocks away, what you would have is a very bouncy ride that would still be softer than no suspension at all, but a great degree of control would be lost. Their duty is two fold: to regulate the compression and the rebound actions of your suspension. This means that when your springs are compressed (when you hit a bump or a pothole) the shocks keep the springs from compressing as quickly, or as fully. But what goes down, must also come up (in the spring world, anyway) so the reaction is for the spring to return to it's normal height or state after it has been compressed. That's rebound, and the shock controls this too, limiting the oscillating of the spring and keeping it from rebounding too fast.
That is what Shocks do, and what they are for, but do they need to be replaced? In a word, YES. The average life of a shock is universally understood to be about 40 - 50,000 miles. The best shock, to the cheapest, all need to be replaced within this time frame. No shock will be within it's designed parameters beyond that kind of mileage. Sorry, your car is not an exception.
But you say, "I have struts, and my car rides great!" Struts are just fancy (and cheaper for the manufacturer) modifications of a spring/shock assembly, with a traditional shock contained within the strut. As to the ride, some lighter cars will seem to ride fine beyond the 40,000 mile mark, but what you don't know is that your ride and handling have both deteriorated slowly over time. You may never know just how far until you actually replace the shocks. THEN you will see and feel the difference. Trust me, your car is no exception. If it has been 40,000 miles or more since they were replaced, you are due, and you are living on borrowed time.
Why? Because shocks are not about giving you a soft ride. They are in integral part of your suspension set up and worn shocks will not keep your tires in contact with the road, lengthening stopping distances, and adversely affecting handling. Translation? With worn shocks, your vehicle will take longer to stop, and will handle poorly, especially in emergency actions. Worn shocks will also adversely affect tire wear, and will allow your vehicle to wallow dangerously in high wind, or with a heavy load, or when cornering, or all three.
If you value your life and the life of your other passengers, you will replace your shocks regularly and help maintain your vehicle's intended driving dynamics at peak performance. Another added benefit to replacing worn shocks is that all the other suspension components will last longer and provide maximum performance over a longer period of time, saving you money and giving you a vehicle that drives great way past the average life cycle.
Personally, I change my shocks about every 35,000 - 40,000 miles and my vehicles ride and handle like new, even well past the 100,000 mile mark. So, what are you waiting for? Shop around for prices and variety, including shop prices. Unless you drive a high end exotic, you should be able to find shocks for somewhere in the $20 - $50 range, even if your vehicle has struts. * Important note: Every strut made (to my knowledge) has a replaceable internal cartridge (shock) within the strut that can be replaced, without having to replace the whole assembly. Don't let any shop owner tell you different, and the price for replacing the strut cartridge (shock) should be about 25% less than the whole assembly.
Drive Precisely!
Friday, March 16, 2007
It's a Little Wristy
Driving and thinking don't mix, do they? Well, maybe they do, but many of you have to be shaken (not stirred) into thinking about your driving.
Case in point: when you drink from a cup, do you hold the cup with your hand, or with your wrist?
When you run the vacuum, do you hold the handle with your hand, or with your wrist? hmmm?
As you are playing tennis, do you hold the racquet with the palm of your hand, or do you use your wrist?
When carrying a heavy and precious item, do you hold it securely with your hands, or do you try to grasp it with your wrists?
You say, "only a mad man would use his wrist for such activities," and I would agree.
THEN WHY DO YOU THINK IT'S APPROPRIATE TO DRIVE WITH YOUR WRISTS?
You know who you are. I see you every day, in all kinds of cars, on all kinds of roads, at varying speeds. You are 16, or 25, or 50 or older - it doesn't seem to matter. Your car is really nice or a piece of crap -- it makes no difference. You usually are leaning on your right elbow on what has become the most obnoxious piece of equipment ever installed in a car: the console pad between the seats. Usually, with your left wrist, you are attempting to drive the vehicle, while apparently thinking you are looking cool.
In fact, you look careless and stupid.
Steering wheels are made for HANDS, not wrists. You have no control over your vehicle with your wrists. And by the way.......if you think this makes you an individual, you need to sit up straight for once and look around. Half the people on the road around you (your fellow missile operators) are driving the same way. Do you feel safe now?
For the life of me, I will never understand why so many idiots who have a motor vehicle license think this is a good way to drive. I mean, I've tried it just for information and within 30 seconds my hand was going to sleep. It's not comfortable, and it's not smart. But hey, ya gotta look cool while driving, right?
Listen up Binky, you don't look cool in the first place. That cheesy pair of sunglasses does nothing to offset the emerging bald spot on your oversized mellon and slouching with your wrist perched on top of the steering wheel does nothing to offset everything aforementioned. You're still fat, unattractive and driving a poorly maintained vehicle with little to no control. And seemingly, you don't care.
Maybe it's the advent of power steering and rack and pinion systems and modern radial tires that makes everyone relax and take driving so casually. Sure, those realities make modern cars easier to handle than a sleeping kitten, but like our untrusting feline friends, your vehicle can spring a surprise on you at any time and.......BAMO...........you're headed for a guardrail at 60 and your slouched, inattentive, and your stupid wrist will not be able to bail you out. Don't think it can't happen. It will. Or worse, it will happen to someone else and you're in their path. Either way, it is then that you will regret not having both hands on the wheel.
So, next time you jump in the car, sit up straight, adjust the wheel to where it is directly in front of your chest, get that seat back in the upright position, and place those grubby little hands on the wheel at the 9 and 3 'o clock positions. And keep them there.
If you remember nothing else from this article, know this -- you and the other idiots around you driving with a wrist on top of the wheel do not look cool. You DO look careless and stupid. If you want to look cool, get some rogaine, loose some weight, buckle up yourself and your kids, and drive with precision to the nearest park and make sure your kids and wife (or husband, etc.) have a good time together. THEN you'll be cool.
At least you'll have a better chance of arriving there safely.
Drive precisely!
CAR CARE TIP OF THE MONTH
Tire inflation: there are various theories about the appropriate pressure for your tires, such as "look on the sidewall" or "check the inside panel of your drivers door" and so on. Well, what I am going to highly recommend is the former.
Car manufacturers will post on a label, usually on the edge of your door, a recommendation for pressures of the front and back tires. This seems fine, until you think about it further.
First of all, the car designer had in mind a certain type of tire, which may or may not still be on your car. Second, each car designer has in mind a set ratio of compromise between handling, braking, ride comfort and NVH (Noise, Vibration, Harshness) dynamics. When it comes to the recommended tire pressures, you can be sure that they are suggesting pressures that balance somewhere in the middle of those factors. Also, it is not uncommon for a manufacturer to recommend different inflation pressures for the front tires from the rear set. I don't care who you are, I would never follow that advice! It's too complicated and it's not the safest way to go if you want a balanced car.
I have always kept the tires on any car I have ever owned at the maximum cold setting stamped on the sidewall of the tire. Back in the old days of bias ply tires, that was almost always 32 psi. It was such a standard that many repair shops will still use that as the default setting for any tire they inflate. Such lunacy is inexcusable today.
As far as I know, there is no tire manufactured today that has "32 psi" as the maximum cold inflation pressure. What you are more likely to find is either 35 psi, or 44 psi, for most passenger car tires. 35 psi will usually be stamped on tires that have a speed rating below 115. Think of this as soft riding, passenger car tires. 44 is often used for tires that have a little more edge to them, such as you will find on sporty sedans or higher priced luxury cars, sports cars, etc. Just check your side wall and you can find out for yourself. You may be surprised that your car has tires rated at or above speeds of 115, so don't assume.
As I said, I have always kept my tires at the maximum setting and have never had anything adverse come of it. In fact, I have posted miles as high as 67,000 on a set warranted for 45,000, and you can bet your boots this was attributable to keeping them set at the max, rotating them often, and keeping the front end aligned.
But why the maximum? Well, anyone in the car industry will tell you that keeping your tires at or near the top inflation pressure will:
Case in point: when you drink from a cup, do you hold the cup with your hand, or with your wrist?
When you run the vacuum, do you hold the handle with your hand, or with your wrist? hmmm?
As you are playing tennis, do you hold the racquet with the palm of your hand, or do you use your wrist?
When carrying a heavy and precious item, do you hold it securely with your hands, or do you try to grasp it with your wrists?
You say, "only a mad man would use his wrist for such activities," and I would agree.
THEN WHY DO YOU THINK IT'S APPROPRIATE TO DRIVE WITH YOUR WRISTS?
You know who you are. I see you every day, in all kinds of cars, on all kinds of roads, at varying speeds. You are 16, or 25, or 50 or older - it doesn't seem to matter. Your car is really nice or a piece of crap -- it makes no difference. You usually are leaning on your right elbow on what has become the most obnoxious piece of equipment ever installed in a car: the console pad between the seats. Usually, with your left wrist, you are attempting to drive the vehicle, while apparently thinking you are looking cool.
In fact, you look careless and stupid.
Steering wheels are made for HANDS, not wrists. You have no control over your vehicle with your wrists. And by the way.......if you think this makes you an individual, you need to sit up straight for once and look around. Half the people on the road around you (your fellow missile operators) are driving the same way. Do you feel safe now?
For the life of me, I will never understand why so many idiots who have a motor vehicle license think this is a good way to drive. I mean, I've tried it just for information and within 30 seconds my hand was going to sleep. It's not comfortable, and it's not smart. But hey, ya gotta look cool while driving, right?
Listen up Binky, you don't look cool in the first place. That cheesy pair of sunglasses does nothing to offset the emerging bald spot on your oversized mellon and slouching with your wrist perched on top of the steering wheel does nothing to offset everything aforementioned. You're still fat, unattractive and driving a poorly maintained vehicle with little to no control. And seemingly, you don't care.
Maybe it's the advent of power steering and rack and pinion systems and modern radial tires that makes everyone relax and take driving so casually. Sure, those realities make modern cars easier to handle than a sleeping kitten, but like our untrusting feline friends, your vehicle can spring a surprise on you at any time and.......BAMO...........you're headed for a guardrail at 60 and your slouched, inattentive, and your stupid wrist will not be able to bail you out. Don't think it can't happen. It will. Or worse, it will happen to someone else and you're in their path. Either way, it is then that you will regret not having both hands on the wheel.
So, next time you jump in the car, sit up straight, adjust the wheel to where it is directly in front of your chest, get that seat back in the upright position, and place those grubby little hands on the wheel at the 9 and 3 'o clock positions. And keep them there.
If you remember nothing else from this article, know this -- you and the other idiots around you driving with a wrist on top of the wheel do not look cool. You DO look careless and stupid. If you want to look cool, get some rogaine, loose some weight, buckle up yourself and your kids, and drive with precision to the nearest park and make sure your kids and wife (or husband, etc.) have a good time together. THEN you'll be cool.
At least you'll have a better chance of arriving there safely.
Drive precisely!
CAR CARE TIP OF THE MONTH
Tire inflation: there are various theories about the appropriate pressure for your tires, such as "look on the sidewall" or "check the inside panel of your drivers door" and so on. Well, what I am going to highly recommend is the former.
Car manufacturers will post on a label, usually on the edge of your door, a recommendation for pressures of the front and back tires. This seems fine, until you think about it further.
First of all, the car designer had in mind a certain type of tire, which may or may not still be on your car. Second, each car designer has in mind a set ratio of compromise between handling, braking, ride comfort and NVH (Noise, Vibration, Harshness) dynamics. When it comes to the recommended tire pressures, you can be sure that they are suggesting pressures that balance somewhere in the middle of those factors. Also, it is not uncommon for a manufacturer to recommend different inflation pressures for the front tires from the rear set. I don't care who you are, I would never follow that advice! It's too complicated and it's not the safest way to go if you want a balanced car.
I have always kept the tires on any car I have ever owned at the maximum cold setting stamped on the sidewall of the tire. Back in the old days of bias ply tires, that was almost always 32 psi. It was such a standard that many repair shops will still use that as the default setting for any tire they inflate. Such lunacy is inexcusable today.
As far as I know, there is no tire manufactured today that has "32 psi" as the maximum cold inflation pressure. What you are more likely to find is either 35 psi, or 44 psi, for most passenger car tires. 35 psi will usually be stamped on tires that have a speed rating below 115. Think of this as soft riding, passenger car tires. 44 is often used for tires that have a little more edge to them, such as you will find on sporty sedans or higher priced luxury cars, sports cars, etc. Just check your side wall and you can find out for yourself. You may be surprised that your car has tires rated at or above speeds of 115, so don't assume.
As I said, I have always kept my tires at the maximum setting and have never had anything adverse come of it. In fact, I have posted miles as high as 67,000 on a set warranted for 45,000, and you can bet your boots this was attributable to keeping them set at the max, rotating them often, and keeping the front end aligned.
But why the maximum? Well, anyone in the car industry will tell you that keeping your tires at or near the top inflation pressure will:
- Extend the overall life of the tire
- Greatly enhance cornering ability
- Shorten stopping distances
- Reduce tread temperatures
- Effectively increase the load carrying range of the tire (verses being under-inflated)
- Sharpen steering response
- Increase mileage
So, check those tires and see for yourself what the maximum inflation pressure is. Then, go and inflate them to that setting and you will immediately begin to reap the benefits of a properly inflated set of tires.
Friday, February 9, 2007
This Place is a Dump
If you are one of the millions reading this blog, you need to go out to your car immediately after reading and take stock of what is in your seats and floorboards. But before you do, let's make a bet.
I am betting one or more of the following items will be found in your car, either on the floor, on the dashboard, or somewhere on the seat(s). Ready? Keep count!
1. A CD or cassette tape holder
2. Some kind of book (phone book, fiction, directory, coloring, etc.)
3. Some type of headphone apparatus, including wires
4. Fast food wrappers (folded, spindled, or mutilated)
5. Actual fast food remnants
6. A small stuffed toy
7. A ball (sports, toy, bouncy, etc.)
8. Napkins (used, unused, hard to tell) - see #4
9. A piece of clothing (yours, theirs, unknown, etc.)
10. Pencils, pens, tablets, paper (how literary are you?)
So, how many did you add up? There is no way to make this bet pay off, but I am betting that over 80% of you reading had to admit to having 6 out of 10 in your car. OK, so there is no way to prove this either, but hopefully the point is made.
And that point is?
Many years ago, I watched some awful movie about a guy running from the law in a hopped up musclecar. I would imagine the car was the brightest part of the movie. Anyway, in the movie, this dude running from the po po had a guitar in the car, but in the chase scene the guitar somehow got lodged under the brake pedal. When the assumed fugitive had to stomp on the brakes to avoid running off a cliff, the now broken guitar prevented the brake pedal from engaging, and the hapless chap went over the cliff. Sad story, but what I came away with in my pre-driving days was: "clean out those floorboards!"
Fast forward from then to when I was indeed driving, and as you may already guess, I was driving my own car, a hopped up '71 Nova, and during some spirited driving, a cassette tape holder (can you guess the year) got loose and got under my brake pedal. Ladies and gentlemen, let me tell you I can still remember vividly how desperately I stomped my own pedal. Suffice to say, I broke through the flimsy plastic holder and after coming to a halt, promptly got out, rearranged my interior, and moved on. Dear reader, let me say that even at the time of this near accident, I kept my interior spotless. I had just failed to remember that I had stuffed a few extra cassette tapes under the drivers seat months earlier.
Why is this important? Maybe you'll never had a foreign objects under your brake foot, but I wouldn't count on it, and really, doesn't a clean car make sense? What's that? You've never seen the interior of your car clean?
Oh dear reader, if you do want to be a precision driver (refer to my initial blog) you will recognize the inherent value of having clean car, interiorally speaking. Why? May I submit another list? Thank you!
Good, decent, American reasons to keep the interior of your car clean:
1. Do I really need to mention the whole brake pedal scenario?
2. Potentially lower the weight of your vehicle
3. Could keep the insects from taking over (don't laugh - some cars have been infested with ants)
4. It will provide room for you to place your feet
5. Getting all that junk out will allow you to see just how filthy your floor mats are. What's that? Didn't know you had floormats?
6. Didn't talk much about dashboards, but cleaning off that area will let your defroster work properly, and it will keep dangerous reflections from impeding your view, especially on bright days.
Go ahead and scoff, but when (not if) you have to stomp the brake pedal, or when (hopefully never, but odds are against you) you are rear ended, you will be so very glad you cleaned out your floorboards, removed all that junk off the dash and the seats, so that you could come away unscathed by such items. Besides, a precision driver just enjoys a clean, pristine car. Don't you?
CAR CARE TIP OF THE WEEK
A new feature added to "Driving Me Crazy" will be a car care idea that hopefully will aid you as you endeavor to become a Precision Driver. So, here is your first installment...
The winter months are in full bloom, and that means shorter days, more nasty precipitation, and decreased visibility. Those three are an ugly combination, but there are things you can do to counter.
First, install new wiper blades. If your blades are less than 3 months old, never mind, but if older, get new ones. It's likely a $10 purchase and will help immensely. By the way, regardless of how old your wiper blades are, during winter months especially, wipe them down with some silicone protectant (Armor All, Son of a Gun, etc.) at least once every two weeks. This keeps them supple and makes them resistant to freezing or ice sticking to them.
Second, use some kind of windshield protectant/ wax. I don't want to get into any trouble with manufacturers, but I personally use Rain X, and it works great. Buy a bottle and follow the simple instructions. Products like this or similar are not gimmicks, and if you use them regularly (twice a month, especially in the winter time) you will notice a dramatic difference in visibility and with water shedding. Frankly, I use this product all year round and I rarely have to even engage my wiper blades. My windshield is so slick the water just sheets off, especially after speeds of 30 mph or higher. Don't stop at the windshield - apply it to the side windows, the back light, and even the headlights/ covers.
Third, clean the inside of your windows. The best method I have used is to get some newspaper (black and white print only) and a good quality window spray. If you haven't done this in awhile, or ever, be prepared for the dramatic difference, especially on humid, cold days.
Fourth, check that windshield wiper reservoir. Again, especially in the winter, keep it full of good quality (usually $2 or less a gallon) wiper fluid.
Fifth, check all your lights. Replace immediately any burned out headlight, including one that is just burned out on the high beam, if so equipped. Check all parking lights, tail lights, and turn signals. You want to see as much as be seen.
Nothing on the list above is expensive or time consuming. If you follow these simple protocols, your driving experience will improve dramatically and you will be able to face the nastiest winter weather with confidence.
So, go out to the garage and get started!
Drive precise!
Thursday, January 4, 2007
Right turn, Clyde
Unless you're a NASCAR driver, you will inevitably face making a turn from one street, on to another. Turning is as much a part of driving as running is a part of football, unless you're the 2nd string quarterback. Anyway, making a proper turn while driving here in America is as easy as pie, so why do so many drivers get it wrong? Why, in the name of Zeus, do so many drivers with what I assume to be a valid drivers license, make improper turns more often than The Donald makes pouty faces?
First, let us answer the burning question, "what constitutes a proper turn?"
A proper turn will more often than not occur when a motorist leaves one street for another, usually at an intersection. However, the simple principals detailed in a moment can apply to turns made at a "T" intersection, from one two lane road onto another. Anywho, let us say that you, the valid and alert motorist who endeavors to be a precision driver (as detailed in my opening blog) comes upon an intersection where you intend to make a turn. For brevity's sake, let us say that you are on a 4 lane road, and will be turning onto another 4 lane road, with a center median/ turn lane. Now, in order for you to make a proper right hand turn, you need to be in the right-most lane of your street. At the intersection, you set your turn indicator for a right turn, check traffic or wait for the light to turn green, and then when all is clear and legal, you turn in to the RIGHT LANE. The bold, underlined, all caps is intended to capture your attention.
Notice that I did not say "to turn into whichever lane is free," or "turn and enter whichever lane suits you best." Why? Oh, my fingers are just tingling in anticipation of typing the response to that question. The "why" is simple: you always, and I mean ALWAYS, make a right turn in to the right lane, and a left turn in to the left lane. If it were any more simple than that, monkeys would be driving.
Through means I do not wish to discuss, I can detect far too many of you sitting there in front of your illuminated screens, blinking rapidly with your mouths agape, trying to figure out why I am making such a big deal out of a turn. Or maybe, your simple brain trust is trying to capture the obvious genius of how to make a proper turn. Either way, stop blinking and start thinking. Let's discuss, shall we?
The reasons why we always turn right into the right lane (where applicable) and left into the left lane number at least two. Reason # 1: When you are at an intersection for multiple lane streets, there is a decent chance that other motorists can also legally turn onto the street you are entering, depending upon traffic light sequencing and the presence of dedicated turn lanes. Mouth still open? Then look at it this way - you are about to make a right turn onto a 4 lane road, from a 4 lane road. Your turn signal is on and traffic on the perpendicular street has stopped, so you think the way is clear to turn right on red. What you're missing is the fact that motorists across the way, traveling in the opposite direction from you, may now have a "left turn" light, and so they will be entering the street you intend to turn right on to. As you begin to imagine two lanes of traffic now entering the same road from opposing directions, you can now see the wisdom in following the mantra, "turn right into the right lane, and turn left into the left lane." If you can not see that wisdom now, be careful. A monkey may soon replace you at the wheel.
Most of you don't even think about such things when turning, and I know because I've been watching for over 25 years and I rarely see anyone follow the simple rule of turning. One reason is that when people turn, they usually approach the turn at such a poor angle and with such speed that they almost have to cross into the other lane just to stay on 4 wheels. Another reason is laziness and the inability to judge distances while behind the wheel. Huh? Yes, far too many drivers cannot avoid running up on the curb when turning right (especially) so they just proceed into the left most lane when turning right. I guess they think they won't have to turn the steering wheel as much. Lazy, and stupid. No regard for other drivers also turning on to the same road.
If you are one of those motorists in a dedicated left hand turn lane at a busy, multi-lane intersection, you can fully appreciate the motorists across the intersection from you on your left who are trying to turn right early when they adhere strictly to the turning rule (review: "always turn right in to the right lane, and turn left in to the left lane.") and allow you free and clear access to the left lane as you proceed through your change of roads.
Why so much ado about turning?
1. Adherence to the turning rule can almost eliminate accidents at intersections during transition periods
2. Adherence to the turning rule will allow more motorists to turn in a shorter amount of time, thereby reducing traffic problems and delays
3. Adherence to the turning rule is one more step in your quest to becoming a precision driver
So, next time you turn left or right, at an intersection or at a simple T on a lonely country road, think about the other motorists and their space and legal freedoms and proceed in to the proper lane!
Or, continue to make lazy, dumb lane changes and get replaced by "Cheeta." It's your call.
Drive precise!
First, let us answer the burning question, "what constitutes a proper turn?"
A proper turn will more often than not occur when a motorist leaves one street for another, usually at an intersection. However, the simple principals detailed in a moment can apply to turns made at a "T" intersection, from one two lane road onto another. Anywho, let us say that you, the valid and alert motorist who endeavors to be a precision driver (as detailed in my opening blog) comes upon an intersection where you intend to make a turn. For brevity's sake, let us say that you are on a 4 lane road, and will be turning onto another 4 lane road, with a center median/ turn lane. Now, in order for you to make a proper right hand turn, you need to be in the right-most lane of your street. At the intersection, you set your turn indicator for a right turn, check traffic or wait for the light to turn green, and then when all is clear and legal, you turn in to the RIGHT LANE. The bold, underlined, all caps is intended to capture your attention.
Notice that I did not say "to turn into whichever lane is free," or "turn and enter whichever lane suits you best." Why? Oh, my fingers are just tingling in anticipation of typing the response to that question. The "why" is simple: you always, and I mean ALWAYS, make a right turn in to the right lane, and a left turn in to the left lane. If it were any more simple than that, monkeys would be driving.
Through means I do not wish to discuss, I can detect far too many of you sitting there in front of your illuminated screens, blinking rapidly with your mouths agape, trying to figure out why I am making such a big deal out of a turn. Or maybe, your simple brain trust is trying to capture the obvious genius of how to make a proper turn. Either way, stop blinking and start thinking. Let's discuss, shall we?
The reasons why we always turn right into the right lane (where applicable) and left into the left lane number at least two. Reason # 1: When you are at an intersection for multiple lane streets, there is a decent chance that other motorists can also legally turn onto the street you are entering, depending upon traffic light sequencing and the presence of dedicated turn lanes. Mouth still open? Then look at it this way - you are about to make a right turn onto a 4 lane road, from a 4 lane road. Your turn signal is on and traffic on the perpendicular street has stopped, so you think the way is clear to turn right on red. What you're missing is the fact that motorists across the way, traveling in the opposite direction from you, may now have a "left turn" light, and so they will be entering the street you intend to turn right on to. As you begin to imagine two lanes of traffic now entering the same road from opposing directions, you can now see the wisdom in following the mantra, "turn right into the right lane, and turn left into the left lane." If you can not see that wisdom now, be careful. A monkey may soon replace you at the wheel.
Most of you don't even think about such things when turning, and I know because I've been watching for over 25 years and I rarely see anyone follow the simple rule of turning. One reason is that when people turn, they usually approach the turn at such a poor angle and with such speed that they almost have to cross into the other lane just to stay on 4 wheels. Another reason is laziness and the inability to judge distances while behind the wheel. Huh? Yes, far too many drivers cannot avoid running up on the curb when turning right (especially) so they just proceed into the left most lane when turning right. I guess they think they won't have to turn the steering wheel as much. Lazy, and stupid. No regard for other drivers also turning on to the same road.
If you are one of those motorists in a dedicated left hand turn lane at a busy, multi-lane intersection, you can fully appreciate the motorists across the intersection from you on your left who are trying to turn right early when they adhere strictly to the turning rule (review: "always turn right in to the right lane, and turn left in to the left lane.") and allow you free and clear access to the left lane as you proceed through your change of roads.
Why so much ado about turning?
1. Adherence to the turning rule can almost eliminate accidents at intersections during transition periods
2. Adherence to the turning rule will allow more motorists to turn in a shorter amount of time, thereby reducing traffic problems and delays
3. Adherence to the turning rule is one more step in your quest to becoming a precision driver
So, next time you turn left or right, at an intersection or at a simple T on a lonely country road, think about the other motorists and their space and legal freedoms and proceed in to the proper lane!
Or, continue to make lazy, dumb lane changes and get replaced by "Cheeta." It's your call.
Drive precise!
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